Bryanna Clark Grogan’s Vegan Feast Kitchen/ 21st Century Table: The kitchen journal of a vegan food writer.. I'm on Facebook and Twitter (see links in sidebar at right).
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
TWO HEARTY VEGETABLE SALADS DEBUTED AT VEGAN DINNER PARTY
Our
vegan dinner group of 5 couples convened at our house last week for another
great vegan meal. (We were also celebrating 3 Gemini birthdays-- me,
DH Brian, and Rob.) It was a bit of a squish in our little house, but nobody
minded-- it has been a while since we got together and even longer since we hosted a dinner. On the menu, we had Fireweed's yummy vegan quiche with potatoes
and veggies in it; a delicious lemony cauliflower and potato curry on yellow
rice from Gordon and Sarah; Pelka's aromatic focaccia and wonderful green salad
with Sunshine Dressing; and Ellen's beautiful wild rice salad with black beans.
( My contributions were two vegetable salads and a Chocolate/Almond
Tiramisu for dessert.
I
changed my plans for what to make for the dinner at the last minute because I
thought we weren’t going to be enough vegetables on the menu. (It turned out that we had plenty of veggies in
the end, and it was all delicious.) Because we live on an island, I had to use what was in my freezer, fridge and pantry,
and inspiration was just not coming to me (probably due to the fact that I was
trying to get the house spiffed up at the same time). I turned to a book that I’d just borrowed
from the library, “Fine
Cooking in Season” (Tauton Press, 2011).
Two salad recipes jumped out at me because, not only did they sound
delicious, but I had most of the ingredients, and with a little substituting
here and there, I judged that I could make them- and make them vegan and lower
in fat at the same time.
One
recipe was a roasted corn salad with edamame (green soybeans), fresh mint and
cherry tomatoes, in a basil/yogurt dressing with honey and lemon. I had frozen sweet corn and frozen shelled
edamame in the freezer, fresh mint in the garden, frozen basil paste from last
year’s crop, and soy yogurt and agave nectar to use in the dressing.
The
other recipe consisted of quickly-braised kale or Swiss chard, escarole or frisée,
and spinach with roasted hazelnuts, in a dressing flavored plum preserves. I
had hazelnuts, kale and spinach on hand, and figured that the rapini in the
fridge could stand in for the escarole.
I had no plum preserves, but I did have some plum butter that I’d made
last year from the plums on the wild plum tree near our back deck, and I
figured that would do in a pinch. (Polish plum butter is available in some supermarkets, gourmet stores and online-- amazon carries it, too.)
In
both recipes, I could substitute some of my lowfat oil substitute for some of
the olive oil, in order to lower the fat content. (The plum dressing called for a whole cup of
oil!)
For
the celebratory dessert I made a Chocolate/Almond Tiramisu, adapted from the
tiramisu recipe in my book "World Vegan Feast", but, instead of the vegan sponge cake, I used the cake
layers from the Mocha Cafe Latte Cake in the same book. Besides the boozy vegan
mascarpone layer called for in that recipe, I added a layer of Italian
Chocolate Mousse (from my book "Nonna's
Italian Kitchen"), laced with ground roasted almonds. The whole thing
was topped with my Almond
Whipped Cream Topping, ground dark chocolate and slivered roasted almonds. (I
used Kahlua for the liqueur.)
There wasn’t much left at the end of the night,
of either the salads or the dessert! All
in all, another enjoyable evening with great conversation and company and
excellent vegan food! Here are my versions of the salad recipes (I also streamlined the methods a bit), just in case you's like to try them.
BRYANNA’S VERSION OF WARM
SALAD OF AUTUMN GREENS WITH PLUM VINAIGRETTE
Serves
8
Adapted
from a recipe in “Fine
Cooking in Season” (Tauton Press, 2011).
For the plum
vinaigrette:
5
Tbs. plum butter
1/4
cup apple cider or red wine vinegar
1
Tbs. Dijon-style mustard
1/4
cup extra-virgin olive oil
1
tsp. chopped garlic
Kosher
salt and freshly ground pepper
For the greens:
10
oz. baby spinach
1
bunch young kale
1
bunch rapini
2
Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
3/4
cup (about 3 oz.) roasted, peeled hazelnuts, roughly chopped
Whisk
together the plum butter, vinegar, and mustard until smooth. Add
the olive oil, broth and salt and pepper to taste; mix again briefly. Refrigerate in a jar or bottle. This can be made a few days ahead of time. Shake before using.
the olive oil, broth and salt and pepper to taste; mix again briefly. Refrigerate in a jar or bottle. This can be made a few days ahead of time. Shake before using.
Stem
the kale and slice it into strips about 1/4-inch wide. Cut the tough bottoms
off the rapini stems and slice as for the kale. Mix all the greens, wash
thoroughly, and spin dry. (If you prepare the greens ahead of time—1 to 4
days--wrap them loosely in paper towels and store refrigerated in sealed zipper-lock
bags.)
In
a very large sauté pan, stir-fry pan or skillet heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and add
one-third of the greens, and a bit of salt and pepper. Sauté 1 to 2 minutes,
stirring all the time, until the leaves are slightly wilted. Repeat twice with
the remaining greens in two batches. Scoop the greens into a bowl and add the
roasted hazelnuts and the dressing to taste.
Toss well and spread on a large serving platter. Serve at room temperature.
BRYANNA’S VERSION OF TOASTED
CORN, CHERRY TOMATO, AND EDAMAME SALAD
Serves
8-12
Adapted
from a recipe in “Fine
Cooking in Season”, Tauton Press, 2011.
2
cup frozen shelled edamame
1
Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
4
1/2 cups frozen sweet corn kernels, thawed, OR fresh corn kernels (from about 6
medium ears)
1/4
cup plain soy yogurt
1/4
cup fresh lemon juice
2
tsp. agave nectar
1
tsp. minced garlic
1
Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher
salt
Freshly
ground black pepper
2
heaping cups quartered cherry tomatoes
1/2
cup very thinly sliced fresh mint
1/2
cup very thinly sliced fresh basil OR a cube of frozen basil paste, thawed
Boil
the edamame in water to cover by 2 inches for 4-5 minutes. Drain and set aside
to cool completely.
Mix
the corn kernels with 1 Tbs. of the oil on a large baking sheet. Spread the
corn out on the sheet. Place about 5
inches under the broiler of your oven and broil until the tops start to brown a
little (about 4-5 minutes—watch carefully).
Remove from the oven.
To make the Dressing: whisk together the yogurt, lemon
juice, agave, garlic, and 1/4 tsp. salt in a small mixing bowl. Slowly pour in
the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil and the aquafaba or Fat-Free Oil Substitute for Salad Dressings, whisking constantly
until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
In
a medium serving bowl, combine the edamame, corn kernels, tomatoes and herbs.
Toss gently. Add the dressing and toss gently. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Serve at room temperature.
Monday, June 4, 2012
A SPUR OF THE MOMENT PASTA/VEGGIE DISH COMES UP A WINNER
This dish was a happy accident that I threw together for a quick lunch the other day. DH went crazy over it—for good reason, if I do say so myself. It is a very tasty mixture!
Here's how it came about: I had some Soy Curls™ already reconstituted in the fridge (leftover from making another dish), and the asparagus and red bell pepper seemed like a good combination for both flavor and color. I had some huge garlic cloves that needed using, so I ended up with 1/4 cup chopped garlic and thought, what the heck, I’ll just dump all of it in—we like garlic! For the broth, I used some of the broth that the Soy Curls™ were soaked in (poured through sieve), and I had 2/3 cup of my homemade tofu sour cream leftover in the refrigerator. I also had a bit of vegan mozzarella leftover from another dish.
Lastly, I still have frozen cubes of basil paste (see recipe below) that I made last fall and I am trying to use them up before I make this year’s batch, so I thought I’d throw in a cube of that. The ingredients seemed like a good combination to me.
Soy Curls™ soaking in vegan broth
I decided to broil the Soy Curls™ and veggies together with a little olive oil for three reasons— 1.) for convenience (no standing at the stove sautéing—you can prepare other ingredients, set the table, whatever); 2.) to get away with using only 1 tablespoon oil; and 3.) to add that “grilled” flavor to the dish. I wanted to use a short pasta in the dish, and the package of bowtie pasta (or farfalle) in my pasta drawer (yes, I have a dedicated pasta drawer in my kitchen!) caught my eye. (It's pretty, has grooves to catch sauce in, and has a nice bite to it.)
The result was "Wow!"-- a flavor-packed and satisfying whole-meal dish that I'm going to use it as a template for future pasta combos. Other types of vegan protein could be used—seitan, for instance. Other vegetables could be substituted—mushrooms, broccolette, artichokes; sundried tomatoes, etc. Onions of any sort (including leeks, shallots) could be used instead of, or in addition to, garlic. Other fresh herbs could be used instead of basil. Other varieties of short pasta could be used. You get the idea...have fun!
BRYANNA' S BASIL BOWTIE
PASTA WITH GRILLED ASPARAGUS, BELL PEPPER AND SOY CURLS™ (OR ALTERNATIVE)
(can be GF
or soy-free)
Serves 4
2 cups reconstituted Soy Curls™ (or other vegan chicken sub, such as commercial vegan "chicken" strips or "tenders", chicken-y seitan, etc., cut into thin strips)
(NOTE: read more about Butler Foods Soy Curls™ here.)
1 lb. asparagus (fairly thin stalks), tough ends cut off,
stalks cut into 2-inch pieces
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1/4 cup chopped fresh garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
kosher salt
kosher salt
12 ounces farfalle (bowtie pasta; can be whole wheat or GF)
1/3 cup vegan chicken-style broth (I like better than Bouillon Vegan No-Chicken Broth Base)
1-2 tablespoons basil paste OR about 1/2 cup chopped fresh
basil, packed
(NOTE: See Basil Paste recipe below. I used 2 tablespoons,
or 1 cube, because it’s last year’s batch and, consequently, not as strong as a
newer batch would be.]
2/3 cup tofu sour cream (commercial or homemade) or cashew sour cream
1/2 cup dry white wine (can be non-alcoholic)
1/3 cup grated vegan mozzarella-style cheese
1/4 cups Go Veggie!Vegan soy parmesan or other vegan parmesan
sub
freshly-ground black pepper to taste
Set a large pot of salted water on the stove to come to a
boil.
On a large baking sheet, mix the Soy Curls™ (or alternate), asparagus
pieces, bell pepper slices and garlic with the olive oil and spread the mix out
over the pan. Sprinkle with a little bit of kosher salt. Place about 6 inches under
your oven’s broiler and broil until the Soy Curls™ start to brown a little
(this will probably take only about 5 minutes, so watch carefully). Stir the mixture around and broil again until
the asparagus is just tender when poked with a fork. Remove from the oven and set aside.
While the Soy Curls™/veggie mixture is broiling, whisk
together the sour cream and wine and set aside. When the pot of water comes to a boil, add the
pasta to the boiling water. Boil until
just tender (about 10 minutes). Drain in a colander and set aside.
Add the broth and basil paste or basil to a large skillet, stir-fry
pan or wok. Bring to a boil. Lower the
heat to medium. Add the wine/sour cream to the pan. Whisk briefly and add the broiled Soy Curls™ and veggies, stirring well. Add the drained
pasta to the pan, along with the two vegan cheeses. Toss well, salt to taste, and grind plenty of pepper over the
top. Serve immediately.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per
serving): 551.8 calories; 16% calories from fat; 10.1g total fat; 0.0mg
cholesterol; 218.7mg sodium; 578.3mg potassium; 82.4g carbohydrates; 7.2g
fiber; 4.8g sugar; 75.2g net carbs; 25.1g protein; 11.1 points.
Basil Paste frozen in ice cube trays: each cube= 2 tablespoons
BRYANNA'S BASIL PASTE
FOR FREEZING
Makes 1 1/2 cups (1 tsp. paste equals about 2 T. chopped basil.)
This is an easy way to prepare large quantities of basil for
freezing, and it keeps the bright green color. You can make pesto with this
paste, and I prefer doing this to making large quantities of pesto for
freezing, because the flavors are better preserved.
In a food processor, blend the following ingredients to a paste:
8 c. loosely-packed fresh basil leaves
1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil
2 T. lemon juice
TO STORE:
Method #1--
Pack into containers measuring the size you will use most
often, or freeze in ice cube trays (placed inside plastic bags), then pop the
cubes out into storage bags. One cube contains about 2 T. paste, so each cube
is equal to about 2/3 c. of loosely-packed fresh basil leaves.
Method #2--
Spread the paste out thinly on sheets of waxed paper or
heavy plastic wrap and then roll them up like jelly rolls. Pop the rolls into
plastic bags and freeze them. Then you can unroll just a little at a time and
break off small quantities to use in recipes that call for fresh basil.
Enjoy!
Labels:
asparagus,
basil,
bowtie pasta,
farfalle,
frozen basil paste,
pasta,
red bell pepper,
Soy Curls
Monday, May 28, 2012
MY VEGAN "BUTTERMILK" BISCUIT QUEST
I don't know what it is with me and Southern cooking this month. Early in May it was spoon bread, last week it was South Carolina Gold BBQ Sauce, now biscuits. Oh, well-- go with the flow!
Actually, I've been on a quest for what I consider the perfect biscuit for years, off and on. When my kids were small I favored the Tassajara Flakey Biscuit recipe (half whole wheat), but it was very rich and contained eggs, strangely enough. I also made a quick drop biscuit called "Pull-Apart Biscuits" (enriched with wheat germ). My mother never made biscuits, that I can recall, so I was on my own. Over the years I've eaten and made many good ones, but some mysterious element was was always missing and the quest went on.
In the last two weeks or so, I got the bug again, and I decided to concentrate on Southern recipes, since biscuits are so integral to Southern cooking. Southern biscuits are pretty much always buttermilk biscuits, even if the title of the recipe doesn't say so. (If they don't contain buttermilk, they are called "Sweet Milk Biscuits"). So, after trying a few recipes (veganized) and being disappointed at the results, I decided to be mildly "scientific" about it and made chart noting the amounts of all the ingredients for the same size recipe from various sources.
But first of all, why was I disappointed? The first and most important was that I could taste baking powder in most of them, and you shouldn't be able to taste the baking powder. It should do it's work and the taste should disappear in the process. I believe that many cooks think the more baking powder, the higher the rise. But that's only true up to a point! I did some research on this way back in 1980-81 when I was associate editor for La Leche League International's official cookbook "Whole Foods for the Whole Family" (in pre-vegan days). (The book was re-issued in 1993, but I didn't have anything to do with that and have actually not seen a copy of it.) I concluded that the correct ratio was 1 teaspoon baking powder OR 1/2 teaspoon baking soda per cup of flour (of course if you use baking soda, you have to use an acidic ingredient to get it to work).
Another thing that disappointed me was too much fat. Most recipes called for 1/2 cup of fat for 2 1/2 cups flour, though a few were a bit less than that. Next on the list was that I grew tired of the white, white flour! Yes, it seemed necessary for a light, layered texture, and I hadn't had all that much success with whole wheat flour biscuits, but I was determined to reach some sort of compromise.
And then there was some unnecessary "fiddling" with some of the recipes-- the worst was the Fine Cooking recipe (and, don't get me wrong! I really like that magazine!), which contained (for 5 cups flour) 1 1/4 cups butter, 5 tablespoons (!) of baking powder, and required that your butter be frozen, and that your bowl and implements (including rolling pin and food processor bowl) be frozen for a certain amount of time. I thought the whole point of biscuits (a "quick bread", after all) was you could make them quickly and easily on the spur of the moment, but apparently not.
My chart of biscuit recipe ingredients (including recipes from 3 editions of "Joy of Cooking"-- 1946, 1973 and 1997, and one from the New York Times) showed me that the recipes using the least baking powder and soda were from actual Southern cooks, Bill Neal (author of "Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie" (1990 and 2003) and Edna Lewis.
They both also called specifically for a low-gluten (about 9%) flour (White Lily is the favored Southern brand), and higher cooking temperature than the rest. So, as a template, I decided to use the renowned and respected late Southern chef/author Edna Lewis' recipe, which appeared in the book "The Gift of Southern Cooking" by Ms. Lewis and Scott Peacock. Here's the original recipe online. I warn you-- she used lard. But, she used the smallest amount of fat of any recipe I had seen, and, I figured, she's been doing this for more years than I've been alive, so that amount must work well!
Of course, I used my palm-oil-free vegan butter instead of lard (UPDATE: you can also use my homemade palm oil-free shortening OR frozen extra-virgin olive oil, which I freeze in ice cube trays for baking-- 2 T. per cube and they freeze solid!), and made "buttermilk" with soymilk (or hemp milk ,or coconut milk beverage, or homemade nut milk) curdled with lemon juice. However, I did use her homemade baking powder (recipe below; easy to mix up and the same recipe is all over the internet). At the last minute, I decided to try using whole wheat pastry flour (a lower-gluten wheat flour, as she specified), but with most of the bran sifted out (and saved for baking and cereal), so that I would have some of the nutty taste and goodness of whole wheat flour without the rough texture. I used my own home-ground pastry flour, made from soft white whole wheat kernels, but a good brand of commercial whole wheat pastry flour would work just fine. (UPDATE: You can also make these with half white pastry flour and half [unsifted] wholewheat pastry flour, if you don't want to do the sifting thing.)
I give the directions for sifting the bran out of the flour at the top of the recipe. Here is a photo of the resulting flour and bran:

Actually, I've been on a quest for what I consider the perfect biscuit for years, off and on. When my kids were small I favored the Tassajara Flakey Biscuit recipe (half whole wheat), but it was very rich and contained eggs, strangely enough. I also made a quick drop biscuit called "Pull-Apart Biscuits" (enriched with wheat germ). My mother never made biscuits, that I can recall, so I was on my own. Over the years I've eaten and made many good ones, but some mysterious element was was always missing and the quest went on.
In the last two weeks or so, I got the bug again, and I decided to concentrate on Southern recipes, since biscuits are so integral to Southern cooking. Southern biscuits are pretty much always buttermilk biscuits, even if the title of the recipe doesn't say so. (If they don't contain buttermilk, they are called "Sweet Milk Biscuits"). So, after trying a few recipes (veganized) and being disappointed at the results, I decided to be mildly "scientific" about it and made chart noting the amounts of all the ingredients for the same size recipe from various sources.
But first of all, why was I disappointed? The first and most important was that I could taste baking powder in most of them, and you shouldn't be able to taste the baking powder. It should do it's work and the taste should disappear in the process. I believe that many cooks think the more baking powder, the higher the rise. But that's only true up to a point! I did some research on this way back in 1980-81 when I was associate editor for La Leche League International's official cookbook "Whole Foods for the Whole Family" (in pre-vegan days). (The book was re-issued in 1993, but I didn't have anything to do with that and have actually not seen a copy of it.) I concluded that the correct ratio was 1 teaspoon baking powder OR 1/2 teaspoon baking soda per cup of flour (of course if you use baking soda, you have to use an acidic ingredient to get it to work).
Another thing that disappointed me was too much fat. Most recipes called for 1/2 cup of fat for 2 1/2 cups flour, though a few were a bit less than that. Next on the list was that I grew tired of the white, white flour! Yes, it seemed necessary for a light, layered texture, and I hadn't had all that much success with whole wheat flour biscuits, but I was determined to reach some sort of compromise.
And then there was some unnecessary "fiddling" with some of the recipes-- the worst was the Fine Cooking recipe (and, don't get me wrong! I really like that magazine!), which contained (for 5 cups flour) 1 1/4 cups butter, 5 tablespoons (!) of baking powder, and required that your butter be frozen, and that your bowl and implements (including rolling pin and food processor bowl) be frozen for a certain amount of time. I thought the whole point of biscuits (a "quick bread", after all) was you could make them quickly and easily on the spur of the moment, but apparently not.
My chart of biscuit recipe ingredients (including recipes from 3 editions of "Joy of Cooking"-- 1946, 1973 and 1997, and one from the New York Times) showed me that the recipes using the least baking powder and soda were from actual Southern cooks, Bill Neal (author of "Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie" (1990 and 2003) and Edna Lewis.
They both also called specifically for a low-gluten (about 9%) flour (White Lily is the favored Southern brand), and higher cooking temperature than the rest. So, as a template, I decided to use the renowned and respected late Southern chef/author Edna Lewis' recipe, which appeared in the book "The Gift of Southern Cooking" by Ms. Lewis and Scott Peacock. Here's the original recipe online. I warn you-- she used lard. But, she used the smallest amount of fat of any recipe I had seen, and, I figured, she's been doing this for more years than I've been alive, so that amount must work well!
Of course, I used my palm-oil-free vegan butter instead of lard (UPDATE: you can also use my homemade palm oil-free shortening OR frozen extra-virgin olive oil, which I freeze in ice cube trays for baking-- 2 T. per cube and they freeze solid!), and made "buttermilk" with soymilk (or hemp milk ,or coconut milk beverage, or homemade nut milk) curdled with lemon juice. However, I did use her homemade baking powder (recipe below; easy to mix up and the same recipe is all over the internet). At the last minute, I decided to try using whole wheat pastry flour (a lower-gluten wheat flour, as she specified), but with most of the bran sifted out (and saved for baking and cereal), so that I would have some of the nutty taste and goodness of whole wheat flour without the rough texture. I used my own home-ground pastry flour, made from soft white whole wheat kernels, but a good brand of commercial whole wheat pastry flour would work just fine. (UPDATE: You can also make these with half white pastry flour and half [unsifted] wholewheat pastry flour, if you don't want to do the sifting thing.)
I give the directions for sifting the bran out of the flour at the top of the recipe. Here is a photo of the resulting flour and bran:
| Here is the bran, close-up. |
Thank you Edna Lewis and your expertise! This will now be my go-to biscuit recipe!
| I used my Low-Fat "Corn Butter" spread on these biscuits |
BRYANNA'S VEGAN
NOT-QUITE-WHITE-FLOUR SOUTHERN "BUTTERMILK" BISCUITS
Servings: 12
Yield: 12/ 2-inch or
9/ 2 1/4-inch biscuits
TO MAKE YOUR OWN SIFTED WHOLE WHEAT PASTRY FLOUR for this recipe, start with about 3 cups of the flour, either home-ground or store-bought, and sift it through a fairly fine sieve, stirring it with a spoon against the bottom of the sieve and shaking it occasionally, until you can’t get any more flour coming through the sieve. Store the bran airtight for using in baking, cereals, etc., and then measure your flour for the recipe.(UPDATE: You can also make these with half white pastry flour and half [unsifted] wholewheat pastry flour, if you don't want to do the sifting thing.)
2 1/2 cups SIFTED
whole wheat pastry flour (bran removed and saved for use in baking, cereal,
etc.; see Note above)—you can use home-ground soft wheat flour; the white soft wheat is a good
choice
1 3/4 tsp Homemade Baking Powder (see recipe below)
3/4 tsp fine sea salt
1/4 cup vegan butter, such as my palm oil-free Buttah, frozen (see my recipe here) (UPDATE: you can also use my homemade palm oil-free shortening, OR use frozen extra-virgin olive oil, which I freeze in ice cube trays for baking-- 2 T. per cube and they freeze solid!)
9 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon soy milk, hemp milk, or coconut
milk beverage, or homemade nut milk
2 tsp lemon juice
2 tablespoons melted vegan butter for brushing the tops
Preheat the oven to 500ºF.
In a medium bowl mix together the sifted whole wheat pastry
flour, the Homemade Baking Powder, and salt with a whisk.
Cut the vegan butter into 1/2-inch chunks (approximately).Add the
frozen vegan butter chunks and work with your fingers until about half of the vegan butter is finely blended with the flour and the other half is in pea-sized pieces. In
a cup, mix together the non-dairy milk and lemon juice. The mixture should curdle immediately. Pour into the
flour/vegan butter mixture and stir quickly just until it all comes together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface—a silicone
baking mat is good, or even a piece of baking parchment. Pat the dough out into
a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. fold the ends over towards the middle, pat
out again and fold again. Repeat once more. Pat it out once more, evenly this
time) to about 3/4-inch thick. Cut biscuits close together with a 2 to 2
1/4-inch round biscuit cutter, without twisting the cutter in the dough.
Place them just barely touching on a baking sheet (I use a dark one for more
crust on the bottom; you can line it with baking parchment if you like).
I don’t exactly re-roll the scraps. I kind of push the edges
of them together so that they sort of fit together like a puzzle. Then I fold the mass over itself once and pat
or roll gently to 3/4-inch thick and get a couple more biscuits out of it, but
they always look a bit raggedy! Other
people just bake the scraps (sometimes brushed with melted vegan butter and sprinkled with cinnamon sugar) around the edge of the pan for the kids (or the
cook!) to munch on.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Check partway through and turn
the pan around if they aren’t baking evenly. They should be golden. Brush the
tops with the melted vegan butter. Serve hot with your favorite accompaniments—jam, marmalade,
agave nectar, vegan butter, citrus curd—and don’t forget that gravy is also a
possibility!
| You can see that the 2 on the Left in front were the ones made with the pushed-together scraps! |
NOTE: If you keep some until later in the day or the next
day (I wouldn't recommend any more than that; and keep them in a paper bag, not
plastic) heat them quickly in a 400 ºF oven to crisp them up—do not microwave!
Nutrition Facts (An abbreviated version: I don’t
have the stats on home-sifted whole wheat pastry flour, so I have omitted the
fiber, carbohydrate and protein content.)
Nutrition (per one
2-inch biscuit): 198.6 calories; 28% calories from fat; 6.5g total fat;
0.0mg cholesterol; 296.5mg sodium.
HOMEMADE BAKING
POWDER
Makes 6 tablespoons
This is a very common recipe online. Some people add a bit
of cornstarch or arrowroot, but I didn't bother.
Mix together well and store in a tightly covered dry jar or
container:
1/4 cup cream of tartar
2 tablespoons baking soda
Simple as that!
I hope you enjoy this recipe!
Monday, May 21, 2012
STRIKE GOLD-- SOUTH CAROLINA GOLD BBQ SAUCE, THAT IS
If you want to try a differently delicious barbecue
sauce for your vegan burger, seitan"ribz"and cutlets, or what-have-you, try this unique one:
South Carolina Gold BBQ Sauce
I'm re-posting this after pulling it because I thought it might be in my book World Vegan Feast, but it didn't make the cut. With barbecue and grilling season ahead, I thought it deserved a second reading, so to speak.
I hadn't heard of this sauce until I read a mystery novel by Kathy Reichs (I'm a longtime, avid mystery fiction fan), whose main character resides and works both in South Carolina and Montreal. In one book, her heroine, Temperance Brennan, brings the precious golden mustard-based BBQ sauce from South Carolina to
BTW, despite the fact that the main actress is a vegan, I really don't like the show "Bones", which is extremely loosely based on Ms. Reichs' novels. Read the novels-- they are far superior! And give this BBQ sauce a try-- it's one of the best I've ever made, takes very little effort to make, and it's so different from most BBQ sauces that it really makes an impression.
Printable Recipe
BRYANNA'S SOUTH CAROLINA GOLD BBQ SAUCE
BRYANNA'S SOUTH CAROLINA GOLD BBQ SAUCE
Servings: 10
Yield: about 2 1/2 cups
Yield: about 2 1/2 cups
I'm fairly certain that most cooks in South Carolina don't use Dijon mustard, but, what the heck-- it's our favorite and it works!
1 Tbs dark sesame oil
1/2 cup minced onion
1 jar (8 oz./250 mg) smooth Dijon mustard (One favorite brand is Grey Poupon; another is Maille)
3/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup vegan broth
1 1/2 Tbs soy sauce
1 tsp Louisiana Hot Sauce (or more to taste)
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp dried crumbled thyme
freshly-ground black pepper to taste
Heat the sesame oil in a small skillet and sauté the onions, stirring frequently, over medium heat until softened.
Combine all the other ingredients except the bay leaf in a medium saucepan with a whisk. Stir n the onions and add the bay leaf. Bring to boil. Turn down and simmer for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the bay leaf. Pour into a jar, cover and refrigerate.
1 Tbs dark sesame oil
1/2 cup minced onion
1 jar (8 oz./250 mg) smooth Dijon mustard (One favorite brand is Grey Poupon; another is Maille)
3/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup vegan broth
1 1/2 Tbs soy sauce
1 tsp Louisiana Hot Sauce (or more to taste)
(NOTE: A reader asked about subs...you can try any sort of hot sauce and
see what you think. Louisiana hot sauce is pretty vinegary, but it's not as if
the recipe uses that much of it. So go ahead and experiment!)
1 tsp liquid smoke1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp dried crumbled thyme
freshly-ground black pepper to taste
Heat the sesame oil in a small skillet and sauté the onions, stirring frequently, over medium heat until softened.
Combine all the other ingredients except the bay leaf in a medium saucepan with a whisk. Stir n the onions and add the bay leaf. Bring to boil. Turn down and simmer for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the bay leaf. Pour into a jar, cover and refrigerate.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per 1/4-cup serving): 108.3 calories; 20% calories from fat; 2.6g total fat; 0.1mg cholesterol; 481.6mg sodium; 146.8mg potassium; 21.3g carbohydrates; 1.0g fiber; 16.3g sugar; 20.2g net carbs; 1.6g protein; 2.2 points.
Nutrition (per 1/4-cup serving): 108.3 calories; 20% calories from fat; 2.6g total fat; 0.1mg cholesterol; 481.6mg sodium; 146.8mg potassium; 21.3g carbohydrates; 1.0g fiber; 16.3g sugar; 20.2g net carbs; 1.6g protein; 2.2 points.
Enjoy!
Saturday, May 12, 2012
BASQUE-STYLE RED BEAN STEW WITH VEGAN CHORIZO
This is going to be a very brief post because I'm cleaning house and making food for some visitors. But I've been wanting to post this stew for a couple of weeks, but I got sidetracked with rhubarb and spoonbread.
My sister's DNA ancestry test confirmed that there is some Basque on the Spanish side of my father's family, which gives me a special interest in that particular cuisine. I've only scratched the surface so far, but have discovered that bean stews, or one-dish bean-pots, are very popular in Basque cooking. They usually contain meat, but that's easily remedied with vegan sausages, seitan, tempeh, etc., as well as full-flavored vegan broths. I look forward to trying other variations on the theme.
We had a guest when I made this, and she was very enthusiastic in her praise!
Printable Recipe
BRYANNA'S
BASQUE-STYLE RED BEAN STEW WITH VEGAN CHORIZO
Serves 4
Spicy comfort food! Very simple (quick and easy to make), but, oh, so
good! Serve with crusty bread to sop up the remaining liquid, or with cornbread, which complements it well. You might also like to enjoy a glass of red wine with this dish.
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil
1 large
onion,chopped or thinly sliced
2 medium
green bell peppers, seeded and sliced
2 cans (19 oz.) (or 4 cups cooked) small red beans (or substitute pinto or Romano beans), rinsed and drained
2 cups
rich vegetarian broth (preferably made with Better Than Bouillon No-Chicken Vegan
Broth Base)
3
Field Roast Chipotle Vegan Sausages or other vegan chorizo, in 1-inch pieces
1 tsp
Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón), hot or sweet (the Field Roast
Sausages makes the stew quite spicy-hot, so you may want to use the sweet variety)
Heat
the oil in a heavy pot over high heat.
Add the onions and peppers and lower the heat to medium high. Stir-cook until the onions are soft.
(Alternatively, you can microwave the onions and peppers in a covered
microwave-safe casserole for about 6 minutes, or until soft.)
Mix the softened onions and peppers in the
heavy pot ith the beans, broth, sausage pieces, a few shakes of liquid smoke,
and the smoked paprika. Bring to a boil, turn the heat down and simmer,
covered, for about 15 minutes or until the stew has thickened a bit. Serve with crusty bread, rice or cornbread.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per serving): 482.6 calories;
27% calories from fat; 14.7g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 784.1mg sodium;
817.2mg potassium; 53.3g carbohydrates; 20.9g fiber; 4.7g sugar; 32.4g net
carbs; 36.8g protein; 10.1 points.
Enjoy!
Tuesday, May 8, 2012
MY LATEST OBSESSION: VEGAN CORN SPOONBREAD, TWO WAYS
Vegan Spoonbread-Style
Corn Casserole
For some reason, I've been obsessed with spoonbread this last week or so. No, I didn't grow up in the American South (though some of maternal ancestors were from Arkansas, Kentucky, Maryland, North Carolina, and Virginia). But I do love corn in any form and making a good vegan spoonbread has been a goal of mine for quite a few years. Today I'm offering you two versions. Neither of them is the old-fashioned soufflé type (I haven't mastered a vegan version of that yet!). The old-fashioned spoonbread is made from cooked cornmeal mush, either yellow or white, eggs (often with the whites beaten separately), butter and milk (or cream). No wonder John Edgerton, author of Southern Food, wrote that it is "the lightest, richest, and most delicious of all cornmeal dishes, a veritable cornbread soufflé."
The spoonbread varieties made with un-separated eggs are heavier, more of an "everyday" spoonbread, I suppose. These are the types that are best suited to being made vegan, but I have plans to tackle the soufflé version soon!
I tried a couple of vegan versions made with cooked mush, but, so far, they have been on the heavy side, so I'm going to have to do more work on that. For the moment, I decided to try a more modern version, and to re-visit a type of cornbread that I made for years, that I didn't know was also often referred to as a type of spoonbread. I was aiming for a reasonably light, very moist product (but not gooey) that could be scooped out of the pan. Unfortunately, the modern versions contain less corn than the original spoonbread, but I'm going to see if I can remedy that in future.
My first recipe is a moist, sumptuous "casserole bread" that utilizes a biscuit mix and canned cream-style corn (which actually IS vegan). It is definitely a modern version of this bread type, but a popular one, judging by the avalanche of related recipes that I found online! I make my own biscuit mix (recipe provided below) and my vegan recipe avoids not only the eggs, but the sour cream, excessive butter or margarine, cheese, and heavy cream that is called for in many similar recipes.
The second recipe is actually a cornbread that I made for years and never thought of as a spoonbread-- it's a cornbread that's made in such a way that it ends up with a creamy layer of "custard" on the bottom. It's made in the same way as a pudding cake, with liquid poured over the batter at the last minute before baking. But, in my research, I started to see this type of cornbread referred to as a spoonbread, so I decided to veganize that recipe, too. It's so comforting!
I happen to own 3 versions of Joy of Cooking, so I looked up this recipe in all of them to see if it had changed much over the years-- and, indeed, it has, as the ratio of cornmeal to flour has gradually changed. In my 1946 version, the recipe contained 6 tablespoons of cornmeal and 2 tablespoons of bread flour. In my 1973 version, the recipe contained 1/2 cup cornmeal and 1/4 cup flour. In the 1997 version, the recipe contains 6 tablespoons cornmeal to 1/2 cup flour (actually, they have doubled that to make a "fatter" bread).
*************
Spoonbread (particularly soufflé type) is often served with special meals and holiday meals, but any type makes a great breakfast food, drizzled with a bit of maple syrup. It's also delicious with spicy beans and stews, or with cooked greens.
NOTE ABOUT EGG REPLACERS: In these recipes, I used powdered commercial egg replacers because they are easily available and can be used by most people. However, if you happen to have a copy of either of the delightful books by Crescent Dragonwagon, The Cornbread Gospels or Bean by Bean: a Cookbook (on p. 255), you can use her inventive homemade egg sub that she calls "Eggscellence" (on pps. 352-353). (You can see the recipe here, too.) I am planning to play with using the new vegan egg yolk sub, The Vegg (UPDATE: The Vegg is not available in Canada at this time) and also Aquafaba, in future as well.
Printable Recipe (includes Biscuit Mix recipe)
#1. ) BRYANNA'S
VEGAN SPOONBREAD-STYLE CORN CASSEROLE
Serves 8
1 1/8 cups nondairy milk
1 tablespoon Ener-G or Orgran No-Egg egg replacer powder
2 1/2 cups Bryanna's Homemade Lower-Fat Bisquick-Style
Mix (see recipe below)
1/2 cup
yellow cornmeal
1 can (14 oz) cream-style corn (yes, it's vegan!)
1/4 cup
melted vegan buttery spread (try my palm-oil-free "Buttah" or my New Easy Butter-y Spread)
Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a 2-quart
round or oval casserole and line the bottom with baking parchment cut to fit.
With an immersion blender or an electric mixer/beater, beat the milk with the egg replacer powder and nutritional yeast
until very foamy.
In a large bowl, whisk together the biscuit
mix and cornmeal. Add the frothy milk mixture and the can of cream-style corn.
Mix briefly (like a muffin batter). Scoop into prepared pan and smooth the top
evenly. Carefully pour the melted vegan buttery spread over the whole top surface.
Bake, uncovered, for 25 minutes. Serve hot, plain, or with savory items such as stew or chili, or with maple syrup.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition
(per serving): 301.4 calories; 32% calories from
fat; 11.3g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 427.2mg sodium; 337.3mg potassium;
46.0g carbohydrates; 2.4g fiber; 2.9g sugar; 43.6g net carbs; 6.5g protein; 6.5
points.
BRYANNA'S
LOWER-FAT BISQUICK-SYLE BAKING MIX
Yield: 10 cups (I wonder if it would work using a GF flour mix?)
This is a white flour mix-- I'm going to try it with half white whole wheat pastry flour next time. There's another biscuit mix in my book World Vegan Feast, but this one seems to work better in a spoonbread.
9 cups
unbleached white flour
1/4 cup
baking powder
4 teaspoons salt
3/4 cup
cooking oil of choice
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour,
baking powder, sugar and salt. Drizzle in the oil and mix with your hands until
it looks crumbly. Store airtight in a cool place.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per cup): 574.5 calories; 26%
calories from fat; 17.5g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 759.7mg sodium; 726.7mg
potassium; 92.4g carbohydrates; 3.2g fiber; 4.1g sugar; 89.3g net carbs; 11.6g
protein; 12.3 points.
Cooking Tips
If you want to use this in a recipe that
calls for buttermilk, use soy, nut or hemp milk curdled with a little lemon
juice, and add 1/4 teaspoon baking soda per cup of "buttermilk" used.
Add it to the dry ingredients.
***************
#2) BRYANNA'S VEGAN CUSTARDY CORN
SPOONBREAD
(can be soy-free and gluten-free)
Serves 4 to 6
Serves 4 to 6
This
old-fashioned treat, which I consider real "comfort food", is also
called "Crusty Soft-Center SpoonBread" and was known as
"spider bread" in pioneer days, because it was made before an open
fire in a cast iron skillet with "legs" called a "spider".
This cornbread starts out very liquid-y, and ends up with a "custard" layer on the bottom. It's delicious with maple syrup. I didn't think I could make it work without eggs, but it does! The recipe can be doubled and made in a 9" square pan or 10" cast iron skillet. NOTE: I made this the first time in an 8-inch cast iron skillet, but I preferred it made in an 8-inch soufflé dish (straight-sided casserole) about 3 inches deep. The top was well-browned but more tender and it was a bit thicker.
This cornbread starts out very liquid-y, and ends up with a "custard" layer on the bottom. It's delicious with maple syrup. I didn't think I could make it work without eggs, but it does! The recipe can be doubled and made in a 9" square pan or 10" cast iron skillet. NOTE: I made this the first time in an 8-inch cast iron skillet, but I preferred it made in an 8-inch soufflé dish (straight-sided casserole) about 3 inches deep. The top was well-browned but more tender and it was a bit thicker.
1
Tbs oil (this replaces the traditional lard-- I use olive oil with a few drops
of dark sesame oil)
DRY MIX:
2/3
cup cornmeal
3
Tbs flour (or GF flour mix)
1/2
tsp salt
1/2
tsp baking soda
WET MIX:
1
Tbs vinegar or lemon juice PLUS
nondairy milk to make 1 cup
2
Tbs water
2
Tbs Ener-G or Orgran No-Egg egg replacer powder
1
Tbs unbleached organic sugar
FINISH:
1/2
cup nondairy milk (a richer one such as full-fat soymilk or nut milk is the
tastiest)
Preheat
the oven to 400ºF. Place the oil in an 8-inch round, straight-sided casserole
or soufflé dish (about 3 inches deep). Place in the oven while it heats up.
Mix the Dry Mix ingredients together
in a medium bowl. Add the Wet Mix ingredients and blend well. Stir into the Dry
Mix just until mixed. Scrape into the hot pan with the oil. Swirl the 1/2 cup milk over the batter-DON'T STIR IN! Bake for 35 minutes.
Before baking, with the milk poured over the top (this was the one I made in a skillet, but I preferred the one made in a soufflé dish)
Cut into 4 to 6 wedges and scoop out
carefully. Turn each piece upside-down on a small plate, scraping out any
residual "custard" left in the pan and spreading it over the top of
the bread. Serve hot with maple syrup or with spicy beans or stews, or
vegetables (you'll need a fork to eat this). It's very versatile as a side
dish!
You can see the custard layer on the bottom in this picture. You may prefer to serve it flipped over, with the custard layer on top-- it's up to you.
Nutrition Facts for 4 servings:
Nutrition (per serving): 180.1 calories; 26%
calories from fat; 5.5g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 447.3mg sodium; 117.5mg
potassium; 29.7g carbohydrates; 2.4g fiber; 4.6g sugar; 27.3g net carbs; 4.6g
protein; 3.6 points.
Nutritional Facts for 6 servings:
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per
serving):
120.1 calories; 26% calories from fat; 3.7g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol;
376.5mg sodium; 78.3mg potassium; 19.8g carbohydrates; 1.6g fiber; 3.1g sugar;
18.2g net carbs; 3.1g protein; 2.4 points.
Labels:
corn,
corn bread,
custard corn bread,
spoon bread,
spoonbread
Thursday, May 3, 2012
A DELICIOUS AND UNUSUAL STEW-- PERSIAN-STYLE WITH RHUBARB AND MINT
The stew is pictured here with a vegan corn "spoonbread" because I was testing that recipe the same day and wanted to use it up. It should be served with rice-- though it was delicious with the "spoonbread", which I will blog about in a few days. UPDATE: Spoonbread recipes here.
I've been meaning to "veganize" this type of stew for a long time, but finally having our own rhubarb plant and cutting the first stalks got me fired up to go for it. In addition, I'm on the look-out for savory rhubarb recipes, to avoid all that sugar that's in most rhubarb recipes.
Rhubarb, which can be traced back to 2700 BC in China (where it was used for medicinal purposes) is used in this type of stew in Persian (Iranian/Iraqi) cooking, and is also used in a few interesting Indian lentil and chickpea curries. It was also a favorite medicinal with early Arab and Persian physicians. "As early as 114 B.C.,
caravans carried the dried rhizomes eastward over the high mountains to Bokhara
in central Asia, whence they found their way to Europe by way of the Black Sea.
Dioscorides and Pliny wrote of rhubarb in the first century A.D. In later centuries,
Arabs conducted a busy trade in rhubarb by way of Persia and other parts of the
Mideast." Source: http://www.herbs2000.com/herbs/herbs_rhubarb.htm
So far, I've only found this type of Persian stew using rhubarb-- if you know of any other Persian recipes using rhubarb, please share. I have found some Arabic sherbet recipes using rhubarb, and those shouldn't be too sweet.
This recipe is a simple version of what can be a complicated dish. It sounds odd, but the rhubarb lends a fresh, almost lemony flavor and also thickens the stew, and the mint, though plentiful, does not overwhelm, but complements the other flavors. We were very taken with this dish, so I hope you'll give it a try while rhubarb is abundant.
BRYANNA'S VEGAN PERSIAN-STYLE STEW WITH RHUBARB AND MINT
Servings:
4
Because the soy protein or seitan is so low
in calories and fat, you can get away with adding some olive oil and vegan
buttery spread for richness and still have a very low-calorie meal. NOTE: To reconstitute textured soy/vegetable protein chunks, simmer them for about 15 minutes in a tasty (rather strong) vegan broth, using about 2 cups broth per 1 cup chunks. Drain well.
1 tablespoon olive oil
5 cups
(loosely packed) reconstituted textured soy protein chunks (5.5 oz./156
g dry) (also called textured vegetable protein, TVP or TSP)
(Or
you can use seitan chunks instead, or Soy Curls)
2 large
onions, halved and sliced
4 cups
vegetarian broth (I prefer a rich broth, such as Better Than Bouillon No-Chicken Vegan Broth Base.)
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
2 tablespoons vegan
buttery spread, divided (try my homemade palm-oil-free vegan buttery spread)
1 bunch
fresh mint, stripped from stalks and chopped
1 bunch
green onions (green only), chopped
5 medium stalks rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 3/4" lengths
2 tablespoons light agave nectar
freshly-ground black pepper
Note: Make sure that your textured soy
protein or seitan chunks are well drained.
Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick, cast iron or hard-anodized aluminum skillet, stir-fry pan or sauté pan over high heat. As soon as the oil is hot, swirl the pan to
coat the bottom and add the drained soy protein or seitan chunks. Turn the heat to medium-high and stir-fry
until the chunks have browned a bit. Remove them to a plate.
Add the onions to the same pan and
steam-fry until softened. (To steam-fry,
stir-cook over high to medium-high heat, adding a squirt of water as needed to
keep the onions from sticking.) An alternative method is to place the
onions in a microwave-safe casserole or pie plate sprayed with oil from a
pump-sprayer and sprinkle with salt.
Cover and microwave at full power for about 10 minutes. Set aside.
Melt 1 tablespoon of the vegan buttery
spread in a medium nonstick, cast iron or hard-anodized aluminum skillet, stir-fry pan or sauté pan over
medium-high heat. Add the chopped mint
and green onions and stir-fry for about 5 minutes, or until they have softened. Clean out the pan.
Combine the broth, browned soy protein or
seitan chunks, softened onions and sautéed mint and green onion in a heavy pot. Add the coriander and
turmeric. Bring to a boil, then turn
down to a high simmer and cook, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, checking often
to make sure it doesn’t stick.
While the stew simmers, melt the 2nd
tablespoon of buttery spread over medium-high heat in the same pan that you
used for the mint. Add the rhubarb and sauté for a few minutes, just until it
softens, but don’t let it get mushy.
After 30 minutes, the broth will have
cooked down somewhat. Stir the rhubarb into the stew, along with the agave nectar and
freshly-ground pepper to taste.
Serve the stew with steamed basmati rice.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition
(per serving): 259.4 calories; 29%
calories from fat; 9.0g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 744.8mg sodium; 1247.8mg
potassium; 30.7g carbohydrates; 5.8g fiber; 8.7g sugar; 24.9g net carbs; 23.6g
protein; 5.1 points. Enjoy!
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